We are all cautioned on the importance of avoiding damage to the epidermis as it is the first line of defence in protecting the body from harmful substances entering the internal environment. But in a bid to achieve smoother and clearer complexions we utilise such measures as microdermabrasion and chemical peels and even more invasive procedures such as collagen induction therapy through skin needling.
While these measures have their place it is important that we also understand how they effect the skin and the correct way of restoring it and supporting its recovery. Through the use of a skin scanning device a company representative recently reported the degree of micro-skin scarring and capillary damage they detected on individuals who had undergone extensive microderabrasion treatments that were either too aggressive, or the skin did not receive the correct support for recovery before being exposed to further treatment. New technological advances now enable us to view how skin responds to various treatments and these revelations can point to better ways of addressing irregularities that are possibly working against our objectives.
So how does the skin respond to various levels of trauma, and how can we better protect it to stay within the intended objectives when dealing with the issue of exfoliation or dermal stimulation? Furthermore, what ingredients should we turn to when seeking to support the skin’s immunity?
Epidermal Growth Factor.
Let’s look at what happens to the skin during an exfoliation treatment. When skin is damaged, it produces a protein called “epidermal growth factor” (or EGF) to heal itself. This protein is released to help the skin heal when it has a bleeding cut, as opposed to a paper cut where no bleeding happens, and no immediate healing process takes place. Therefore, if you are planning to use AHAs, TCAs,chemical or Enzyme peels where you are disturbing and removing skin cells you need to be aware of a few considerations. These procedures will directly stimulate a more rapid removal of skin cells, but if this is done without also rapidly replacing these cells it will result in immune stress, dryness, redness and dehydration. Once you open the door to immune stress anything can happen.
A peel does little more than force the skin to produce EGF through supposedly “controlled” damage of the stratum corneum. The skin is left to heal itself via pathways crowned with chemicals released by a scrambling immune response (it is the immune system that struggles to reject the peel). What we are now realising is that without the correct support for recovery the long-term effects of these procedures may not be as intended.
Key Skincare Ingredients.
New research has identified certain ingredients that can support the skin’s recovery. Here are some you should keep in mind:
Epidermal Growth Factor
This is a protein with an essential amino acid that mimics the body’s own healing mechanism and rapidly supports the recovery of the skin after a peeling treatment.
This ingredient greatly improves communication between immune cells. BETA FRUCTAN is a naturally occurring compound found in plants that normally thrive in drought conditions. Beta Fructan finesses immunity in the skin and supports the hydration levels. It helps to keep the skin not only plumper, but also supports and improves its general health.
This is a key ingredient to support all mucopolysccharies. Beta-Glucosamine helps to smooth the appearance of fine lines. It is a powerful antioxdiant that minimised the effects of free-radical damage and the signs of skin ageing and fatigue.
Aminoguanidine inhibits the ‘cross-linking’ (or glycosylation) of proteins, which may cause many of the problems of old age. It is believed that the cross-linking of the proteins that make up the human body contributes to the ageing process and in particular in ageing of the skin.
Cross-linking is the process that causes food to turn yellow and become tough with age. Similarly with humans, cross-linking may be responsible for many of the problems of old age, including senile cataracts, thickening of the arteries, skin inflexibility and damage to the immune system.
Studies show that aminoguanidine and carnosine to be age inhibitors. In the natural ageing process, sugar storage shifts to connective tissues (collagen and elastin), which harden the protein matrix of tissue. Aminoguanidine steers free radicals and reactive oxygen species to their destruction. This is a key ingredient in the strategy against ageing.
Carrot oil is highly beneficial for the skin because it is a rich source of natural vitamin A and beta-carotene and is also a potent antioxidant that assists in combating free radical damage. Carrot oil is used in cosmetic formulations due to its excellent regenerative properties and its ability to improve skin flexibility and turgor, as well as improve the texture of the skin due to its high vitamin content.
It appears that the biggest skin benefits of pumpkin-seed oil are that it possesses very high levels of the natural antioxidants and polyunsaturated fatty acids. Pumpkin seed oil is especially high in the gamma-tocopherol form of Vitamin E, which is a powerful antioxidant.
Formulations for Epidermal Growth Factor Recovery.
Clinical Skincare offers two products to support the skin and speed healing of the skin after professional peeling procedures. Available both for professional use, as well as retail sales and suitable for all skin types. As new information comes to light, stepping up our procedures, especially our more invasive ones with the right post-treatment recovery products will mean that we can now offer our clients even better results. Knowing your ingredients and the role they play in your professional services will make the difference between an average treatment outcome and an exceptional one.
EGF-DNA Recovery Creme
Designed to speed up skin recovery after professional peeling services, EGF/DNA RECOVERY CRÈME can be used in conjunction with EGF/DNA RECOVERY CONCENTRATE to further strengthen the skin’s constitution, protect and heal it. Containing Oligopeptides, Epigrowth Factor, Aloe, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Beta Fructan, Beta Glucosamine, Aminoguanidine, Carrot Oil and Sage. EGF/DNA RECOVERY CRÈME should be applied liberally as often as possible on new peeled skin for at least 3-4 days and then reduced to twice a day.
- Regenerates the skin and assists in reducing the appearance of inflammation and supports quick healing.
- Enhances hydration levels and prevents skin sensitivity and drying
- Enhances elasticity
- Assists in correcting any pigment formulation in new skin
- Supports skin’s natural immune function and hormonal balance
- Helps correct damaged cells
EGF-DNA Recovery Serum
Containing a blend of Beta Fructan, Aminoguanidine and Beta Glucosamine as the key ingredients as well as Aloe Vera, Pumpkin Seed oil, Carrot oil, Sage extract, Allantoin and Rosewood essential oil. This serum can be applied morning and cleansing.
- Supports the skin’s normal immune function and hormonal balance
- Helps regenerate the skin
- Reduces the appearance of inflammation
- Enhances skin elasticity
- Prevents dryness
- Helps maintain perfect skin pH balance for a flawless appearance